Introduction
Constructing your gaming PC is a satisfying experience that allows you significantly more control over the pieces and parts that end up in your PC tower. Individuals who are unfamiliar with the internal workings of a PC may find the process too difficult and opt for a pre-built PC. If you’re in that camp, you’ll be shocked to hear that building your Computer isn’t quite as difficult as it once was. If you’re interested, we’ve put up this helpful tutorial to teach you how to build your gaming Computer. We’ve also included a few samples builds below that you could use to build a high-end or low-cost gaming PC.
Before we begin, it is important to realize that this instruction only covers the actual PC. You’ll need to connect it to a monitor, keyboard, and mouse (at the bare minimum). Check out our roundups of the best gaming keyboards, gaming mice, gaming headphones, best PC controllers, and best inexpensive gaming monitors for ideas on which peripherals to buy.
Different Gaming Computer Configurations
Before we begin assembling your PC, we must first discuss how to locate and purchase the necessary components. Getting the appropriate parts can be difficult – and costly. Gaming PCs can be built for as low as $500 to as much as several thousand dollars. More expensive parts usually indicate more power, but finding a construct that matches your budget is sometimes the most difficult challenge for first-time builders. You’ll need various components, each having its own set of models, specs, and compatibility requirements.
We understand that this can be intimidating, therefore we developed sample builds using hardware that was available at the time of writing. The first is a high-end setup capable of cutting-edge gaming performance, while the second is a more economical $1000 construct capable of running most games at reasonable settings.
However, consider our example desktops to be recommendations rather than rigid load-outs, as many online merchants are suffering inventory shortages and shipping delays as a result of the global chip shortage. We cannot promise that all of the parts on our lists will be available, or even at the same price, at any given moment. In that scenario, look for acceptable replacements using sites such as PC Component Picker or Newb Computer Build’s example builds.
Last but not least, our example builds feature all of the components required for modern PC gaming, but they only include the System itself. Optional components, such as optical drives, are not included, however, they are required to play games or media from discs. We also left off accessories, but our buying guides for the best gaming mice, best gaming headset, best capture card for streaming, best gaming keyboard, and best budget gaming displays can help balance out your setup.
High-end gaming PC construction
- The exact cost is $3,682.93.
- MSI Gaming GeForce RTX 4090 Gaming – $1,644.99
- Intel® Core™ i9-13900KF Processor – $546.99
- ASUS ProArt Z790-Creator WiFi 6E LGA 1700 – $439.99
- SAMSUNG 980 PRO M.2 2280 2TB SSD – $139.99
- CORSAIR Vengeance 64GB (2 x 32GB) – $194.99
- CORSAIR iCUE H150i RGB ELITE Liquid Cooler – $179.99
- CORSAIR Shift Series RM1000x power supply – $207.00
- Phanteks Eclipse P600S Black Steel Case – $189.99
- Windows 10 Pro – $159
Build a $1,000 gaming
- Computer Actual Price: $1,197
- MSI Gaming GeForce RTX 3080 X Trio 10G – $359
- Intel Core i9-12900K processor – $185
- ASUS ROG Maximus Z690 Hero WiFi MB – $98
- Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB/1TB SSD – $67
- Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB RAM – $69
- Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU cooler – $45
- Corsair RM850x power supply – $150
- Windows 10 Home – $139
- Thermaltake View 71 Mid-Tower case – $85
The pricing was correct at the time of writing, but they are subject to change.
You’ll be using a No. 2 Phillips screwdriver for the overwhelming bulk of your build, but if you’re installing M.2 SSDs into your motherboard, you’ll want to use a smaller No.1 Phillips screwdriver.
Flashlight:
Fortunately, almost every smartphone on the market can be used as a flashlight, which you’ll most likely require when placing wires and components inside your case.
Thermal paste:
You’ll need a tube of thermal paste to keep your CPU cool while it’s running. Most CPU coolers come with thermal paste already applied, so you won’t need anything else. If you do wind up purchasing a tube of thermal paste, you can remove the cooler’s paste and replace it with your own.
Glossary of Terms
We’ve tried to make the process of building a gaming PC as simple as possible, but if you’re unfamiliar with PC technology, some of the words in this article may need to be defined. Some of the pieces and terminology we’ll be using are outlined briefly here. Please refer to this section as you work on your development.
GPU: GPU is an abbreviation for graphics processing unit, which is another name for a graphics card. This will take care of showing photos on your computer. The more detailed and complex these visuals are, the more power your graphics card will require. Nvidia and AMD are the two biggest names in the graphics card industry.
CPU: The CPU (central processing unit, commonly known as a processor) manages all of your computer’s processes and calculations. You’ll select a CPU from Intel or AMD for your System.
Motherboard: The motherboard is where all of the components are installed, allowing them to function properly and work together.
SATA: SATA is a form of connection, similar to USB, that is used to transfer data from hard drives and SSDs.
PCIe: Another sort of connection is PCIe, which is most widely used for graphics cards and M.2 SSDs.
NVMe: NVMe is a form of connectivity protocol that M.2 SSDs can support. This allows for considerably faster data storage and retrieval.
M.2 SSD: An M.2 SSD is a little stick that provides storage space for your computer. You can acquire a SATA-based M.2 SSD or a PCIe-based M.2 SSD, with the latter supporting NVMe.
RAM (random access memory): RAM (random access memory) is used to store data and information that the CPU is processing. The more Memory you have, when combined with a high-performance processor, the faster your PC can perform its many activities.
Cooling system: The cooling system keeps the CPU from overheating.
PSU (or power supply): The PSU (or power supply) provides power to your PC and its numerous components.
OS: OS is an abbreviation for the operating system. Most gaming PCs will run Windows 10; nevertheless, some people may prefer to install Linux.
How to Build a Gaming Computer
Step 1: Prepare your motherboard
Components used: Motherboard
Assembling the motherboard outside of the casing will make your entire experience much more manageable. Before screwing it into your case, we recommend that you install as many parts as feasible. When you begin working on your motherboard, it is critical that you consult its documentation as often as possible, as your unique motherboard may recommend specific ways or places to install your components. Also, take in mind that some parts will require some force to be plugged in, and others will merely need to be inserted in their proper slots. Please read the instructions carefully before installing your components.
The first step is to ensure that you’re constructing your PC on a flat surface. Don’t build it on a carpet; the combination of static electricity and your PC’s components is a risky one that could destroy your components. Although this is unlikely, we recommend touching your metal casing from time to time to help centre yourself and prevent this from happening.
Instead, build your equipment in a room with hardwood or laminate floors, such as a dining room or kitchen—we even took our socks off. Remove the motherboard from its package and arrange it on a level surface. It can be placed straight on your table, however, we like to keep it on top of its box to avoid damaging our desk. You are now prepared to begin.
Step 2: Set up the CPU
Components used: CPU, motherboard
The most straightforward element of your construction is also the first: installing our AMD Ryzen Processor. The CPU socket on your motherboard will be shielded by a piece of plastic that you can remove when you open the tray. All you have to do is gently push down on the metal arm of the tray and take it out. Lift it to open the socket once it’s free of the tray, and the protective plastic will fall out. Save this plastic component in case there are any problems with your motherboard, as you will need to reinsert it before returning it to the manufacturer.
Your CPU socket tray should now be open, allowing you to install your CPU on your motherboard. Your CPU’s PCB should have some minor half-circle indents. The CPU socket is designed to fill these indents, making it simple to align and install your CPU.
Gently insert your CPU into its socket once you’ve figured out how. Do not apply direct pressure to the CPU; instead, seal the tray and ensure that the metal arm is locked into its original position, which may require some force.
Step 3: Mount the M.2 SSD (s)
Components used: M.2 SSD(s), motherboard
M.2 SSDs are another simple step in the process, but remember to consult your manual to determine which M.2 slots to utilize first. Remove any protective thermal shields that may be present on your motherboard’s M.2 slots first. After you’ve removed any protections from the motherboard, you may install your M.2 SSDs. They take a little force to slot into their appropriate positions, but don’t push too hard—they should slip right in. After inserting the M.2 SSDs, the other end should be pointed upward at a diagonal angle. At this point, you take the proper screw (which is frequently included with your motherboard), push each M.2 SSD down, and screw it into the corresponding locations. At this point, take the thermal guard and screw it back into place on top of each M.2 SSD.
Step 4: Installing the Memory
Components used: RAM, motherboard
This is another stage where you should consult your motherboard’s manual, which should inform you of the order to insert the Memory. If you have four slots and only two sticks of RAM, make sure the two sticks are evenly spaced in either the first and third slots or the second and fourth—your motherboard manual can help you with this. Separating your RAM in this manner will allow you to get the most out of your Processor. First and foremost, make sure that the plastic clips on both sides of each slot you intend to use are flipped down. Inserting the RAM requires more force, but start slowly and gradually increase your pressure. When you hear a click, your Memory is properly installed. The plastic clamps should flip up and hold your RAM as a result. If your clips haven’t flipped up, your RAM may not be correctly placed.
Step 5: Prepare your case for your motherboard
Components used: Case
It’s almost time to put your motherboard in your case, but first, you’ll need to install some standoff screws to which you’ll mount your motherboard before screwing it in. These standoffs will be included with your motherboard, and once found, you may begin screwing them into your case. The standoffs should be able to fit into around a dozen holes. If you’re having difficulties finding them, consult your case’s handbook. After you’ve screwed in the standoffs, you’re ready to insert your motherboard.
Step 6: Place your motherboard inside your case
Components used: Motherboard, case
The standoffs make it simple to insert your motherboard into your case but don’t begin screwing it in right away. Your motherboard’s I/O ports should fit into a gap on the back of your chassis. There will be a rectangle, and you will want to put your motherboard comfortably into this space so that you can access all of the ports. When everything is in place, begin fastening your motherboard to the standoffs using the required screws. Keep in mind that you do not want to screw anything too firmly. Just turn your screwdriver until everything is securely tightened, and then proceed.
Step 7: Connect your power supply (PSU)
Components used: Power supply, case, motherboard
Putting the power supply into your case is frequently simple. You’ll need to consult the instructions for your specific case for this, but it’s rather simple. Secondly, we screwed our case’s mounting bracket onto the back of our power supply. You’ll notice a fan on your power supply, which is utilized to circulate air. If you intend to place your finished gaming PC on a hardwood floor or desk, aim the fan downward; if you intend to place your gaming PC on a carpeted surface, point the fan upward.
You can easily insert your PSU into your case and fasten the bracket’s screws once you’ve determined which way your PSU has to be orientated and screwed on the mounting bracket. Depending on how much space you have for your PSU, you may want to wait until you’ve plugged in all of its numerous power cables before screwing it in.
Step 8: Attach any SATA hard drives/SSDs
Components used: SATA drives, case, power supply
After you’ve connected the power supply, you may begin connecting any SATA hard drives or SSDs. Your case should have a dedicated bay area for these types of drives. Find this location, then check for two metal clasps on the left and right sides of each bay. Pull the bay out by squeezing these clasps. You’ll be able to screw in your SATA drive here and maintain it sturdy inside your case. After that, you’ll need to replace the bay and connect a SATA and power supply connection to your hard drive. Locate the SATA slot on your motherboard and insert the other end of the relevant cable, then connect the other end of the PSU cable to your power supply. Your drive has now been installed, however, it will need to be formatted once your System is up and running.
Step 9: Connect the power and case wires to the motherboard
Components used: Case, power supply, motherboard
You can now begin connecting connections to your motherboard. Because your case cables are so small and difficult to orient, this step demands some patience. For this phase, you should refer to both your case and motherboard manuals. Certain motherboards, like as our Aorus Ultra, include a bus into which you can plug the case cables before inserting them into the motherboard. This simplifies the process considerably.
Because of your case cables, you can use the numerous ports on the front of your Computer in addition to the power button. Of course, if you don’t plug your power supply into your motherboard, nothing will happen when you hit that button. Plug the 24-pin ATX and EPS12V cables into their proper slots on the motherboard and power supply. All of your power lines, including fans, SATA drives, and your cooling system, will be plugged into the PSU.
Step 10: Set up your CPU cooling system
Components used: Cooling system, CPU, motherboard
Installing your cooling system can be a little nerve-wracking, especially when it comes to applying thermal paste, but it’s a lot easier than it sounds. The first step is to attach the system bracket to the motherboard. You’ll need access to the back of the motherboard tray because you’ll be screwing a portion of it into the tray. This will show you where to place the cooler’s pump on your CPU and motherboard. Nevertheless, there are a few more measures you must take before.
Liquid-based CPU cooling systems include a radiator with fans that you’ll need to screw into your case. Of course, you’ll need to decide where you want to put it. We recommend inserting it into your case’s top grill to increase airflow, but certain cases may not have a top grill and you’ll have to install it on the rear. Once you’ve decided which position to go with, screw the radiator onto the grill itself. After that, you’re ready to connect the pump.
First, you should apply some thermal paste. Some coolers arrive with thermal paste already applied; if that’s the case, your cooler’s thermal paste is probably up to the task, and you may skip this step. If you purchased thermal paste, you can easily remove it from the cooler with a dry cloth. Apply a pea-sized amount of thermal paste to the centre of your CPU.
Always go smaller than larger throughout this step. After applying the cooler, press it into place on the CPU and thermal paste. If you mistakenly applied too much thermal paste, don’t worry: simply wipe the CPU down with a dry cloth and rubbing alcohol and try again. When you’ve installed the pump, check sure all of your cooling system’s connections are properly connected. Our specific cooler required us to connect a micro-USB cable to our pump and the other end to our motherboard.
Step 11: Begin managing your cables
Components used: Case
Before we go to the final step of physically assembling your PC, you may want to clean up the cables. This will allow for some air circulation and access to your components if you decide to upgrade later. Although most cases include Velcro straps or zip ties, I always keep a bag of Velcro on available just in case. The case we chose, Fractal’s Meshify C, has an excellent cable management space with a series of Velcro straps. It can be found on the rear of the motherboard tray. We were able to fit all of our cables into this space and keep them securely attached.
The only zip ties we used were for the wires in our CPU cooling system, which were thin and numerous. This made it easy for us to orient them via the holes in our case to go to our desired location. But be careful not to overtighten your zip ties, since this could cause harm to your cables.
Step 12: Setup your graphics card
Components used: Graphics card, motherboard
Finally, it’s time to talk about the part you’re probably most thrilled about. The graphics card is simple to set up. To begin, remove an adequate number of expansion slot inserts from the back of your case to accommodate your graphics card. This varies depending on the GPU, but two is usually a fair number—our MSI GeForce RTX 2080 Ti takes up two. After unscrewing and removing them, determine which PCIe Express slot your card will need to be inserted into, then flip the plastic notch at the far end of the slot downward to prepare for installation. All that remains is to align the graphics card with the PCIe Express slot and push down until the plastic notch flips up and clicks. Again, you don’t need much power to put it in, but you’ll have to push the graphics card into its slot until you hear a click. When you hear that, you can screw your graphics card’s mounting brackets into the chassis using the screws and holes in the expansion slot.
To give your graphics card power at this point, plug it into your power source. (Low-end graphics cards don’t normally require extra power, so you may skip this step if that’s what you’re working with.) Plug one end of the necessary cables included with your power supply into the graphics card and the other into the PSU. It’s fine if some of the cables go unused; just make sure that every port on the graphics card has a portion of the cable plugged in.
Step 13: Install your operating system
Components used: USB thumb drive, case
After you’ve established that your PC is neat and that all of your wires are in order, connect an HDMI cable to your PC and link the other end to a monitor. Connect the power line to your PSU and the other end to an outlet; next, turn the power switch on the back of your PC to “On.” If your PC turns on when you press the power button, you’re halfway there.
At this point, you’ll need another PC and a fast USB drive with at least 8GB of storage (we recommend the SanDisk Extreme Pro ). You should then go to Microsoft and follow the instructions there. This will assist you in creating an installation device from your USB drive, which you can then insert into your PC before powering it up. When you boot up your computer, it should immediately begin the Windows 10 installation process. Follow the instructions here and then wait for it to install. After that, you should be ready to go, however, you will need to purchase a Windows 10 license from Microsoft. If you do this from your new PC, it will immediately activate. You’re ready to go, excepting the installation of an optical drive, if you opted to acquire one.
Should Ask Questions (SAQ)
If my computer does not power on
If your computer won’t boot, don’t panic: it’s not the end of the world. There are a lot of factors that can cause a PC to fail to boot on the first attempt, and all but product problems are easily remediable. Here are some troubleshooting tips for your underpowered PC.
Is your power supply hooked into a power source?
This is an easy repair. Simply plug in your PC and you should be good to go.
Is the switch on your power supply switched on?
When turning on your power supply, make sure the switch is in the ‘On’ position. This is an easily ignored issue with an equally simple cure.
Are your power supply cables properly positioned in the motherboard?
The next item you should double-check is this. Reconnecting the connections may be all that is required to provide power to your PC.
Are your case’s cables correctly hooked into your motherboard?
It’s critical to get this step right because if you press your case’s power button and its unique cable isn’t plugged in correctly, your PC won’t boot. Some motherboards include a serial bus into which you can hook your case’s connections before connecting to the motherboard.
Are all your parts properly installed?
This is the last thing to check because it can take the most time. Reconnecting your Memory and CPU, or even replacing RAM sticks into different slots, could be the answer.
If all of this fails, your components may be faulty.
Regrettably, this is possible. When creating a PC, you may discover that one of your components isn’t operating properly. You should now contact the maker of your part and inquire about their return policy. You don’t have to worry because the great majority of major PC component manufacturers have return policies that cover damaged parts. It may just take a bit longer to get used to your brand-new gaming machine.
Our designers and production crew choose the products we discuss. If you buy anything featured on our blogs, BaraWorks Insight may receive a portion of the proceeds.
Have a news tip or want to get in touch with us directly? Send an email to creative@baraworksconsult.com.
